We're in Merzouga a bustling, dusty, town famous for being the start of the ancient camel trains to Timbuktoo in Mali - 52 days each way. (Now there's a place I want to visit on another trip).
Now Mergouza has quite a strong tourist focus meaning the famous Moroccan hustle is quite strong here, someone is always trying to sell you something, persuade you to stay at their friends hotel, go on a tour, ride a camel etc, but after being here a while this now all much easier to deal with. A polite no thanks, keep walking and no one takes offense. You do feel sorry for people it's off-season, tourists are few and because of the European recession business has apparently been tough for a few years - the Spanish and the French who are the main stay of the trade have been coming a lot less. There is of course a plus side to a tourist town in a quiet time - good accommodation at a good price. This is where we stayed for two days post desert R&R. Not bad for the equivalent of 30euro/$45, room, dinner and breakfast.
The bike had been running really well all trip with only minor electrical niggles needing a few minutes attention. And despite all the abuse I had given it riding up mountains I should have sense to stay off and bouncing down desert tracks the only thing that had broken was one mirror mounting. Whilst wandering the market I came across a local bike shop which seemed to sell everything so I tried to get a new mount there.
No joy, nothing that would fit my bike. But this is Morocco no one let's a customer get away if they can help it, if you can't help you pass him on to some one else who may be able to. So a phone call is made and suddenly alongside me is this four wheel drive.
Turns out this guy runs a small business maintaining tourist bikes, so quick as a flash all three of us were piled into the back and of we drove to inspect my bike. Yes he has the part, so can I bring it up the workshop. Oh, and being masters of up-selling whilst I'm there, they may as well wash and polish it until it shines like it has never before in my ownership, sell me a litre of oil adjust the chain. All this was done with wonderful panache and whilst feeding me tea - three hours all told for a cost of $30.
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