awayonmybike: Week 20 - Egypt, the perfect time to visit

Getting into Egypt I knew would be a bit of a challenge. The border crossing from Sudan is recognised as the hardest of all on the east side of Africa to cross, with a reputation for bureaucracy, chaos and time consumption unmatched by any other. I approached it with some fear and trepidation - and at first it seemed justified as attempt one saw me turned away as it was closed for the day. But like most things you fear its bark was worse than its bite; yes there was more bureaucracy than previous borders, there was more chaos but as always there always seemed to be someone to point you in the right direction and help out. The only part of its reputation that was truly valid was the time it takes, seven and a half hours from entry to exit.

Swapping bikes with the border guards

New Egyptian number plates - the first country I've required new plates. Getting these is a large part of the slowness at the border

I've read about the downturn in Egypts tourist industry post 2011 before I arrived here, but you have to see it to understand how severe it is and what impact it has. I've visit monuments which have parking and facilities for fifty coaches to find I'm the lone tourist (ok it was early in the day, but it didn't get much busier later on), you drive along the banks of the river Nile between Aswan and Luxor and see 100 or more river cruise ships laid up with only a handful still operating, travel up the Red Sea coast which only a few years ago was booming as the centre of their package tour industry and see 80% of the resorts locked up and closed as well as dozens of new developments apparently abandoned overnight by their builders. The hotel I'm staying in as I write this probably has 150 rooms, at best no more than about 30 are occupied. You have to feel for everyone involved in the industry.

Room with a view - an improvement on last week's hotels

Abandoned hotel - one of very many

And laid up cruise boats

Whilst horrible if your livelihood depends on it, there is of course a massive upside for the tourists, like me, who are here. You can go to some of the world's most famous and magnificent sights, virtually have them to yourself and really appreciate them - and the sights here have easily surpassed my expectations. I had no special knowledge of what was here other than that general understanding of the magnificence of the pharonic era and a vague idea of the grandness of the temples and tombs. When I've seen them, they have blown me away with their size, complexity, quantity and often by their (relative to European monuments of the same era) completeness - I understand now why the Victorian's (the era, not the state!) were so enamoured of the country. Without wanting this to sound like a paid advertisement for the Egyptian Tourist Board, visit if you can, it willnot disappoint and now is the perfect time to visit if you've ever had the inclination or desire.

The Colossus of Menmon - he's a big lad (and made of a single piece of stone )

It was the amount of colour in the temples and tombs that astounded me. What these places must have looked like in their prime is hard to imagine

Not looking too bad for 3500 years old - Temple of Queen Hatchesput.

The most magnificent of them all- Karnak Temple - the largest religious building in the world (and because of that almost impossible to photograph and convey the size and splendour )

Part of the reason tourists aren't here of course is that generic fear of harm that terrorism in the region has spread, its of course is totally overblown, as with virtually every country there is much more danger on the roads than any other source. Having said that the police presence here is strong and very much aimed at making sure tourists stay safe / feel safe. Every monument has a plethora of armed guards (often almost as many of them as tourists and very good for looking after the bike whilst I wander around) and I've had to convoy between some towns, been personally escorted along some roads and been stopped at more checkpoints than I care to remember to have my papers checked (and on occasions been given tea, fruit and water at them).