awayonmybike: Week 19 -Sun and sand

Politics lies uncomfortably just below the surface of any trip up through Africa but reaching Sudan makes them more prominent. The country is under sanctions for its past support of terrorism and its leader, who came to power by military coup back in 1989, is wanted by the International Criminal Court for crimes of genocide against some of his own people's. To be fair though I should also note that unfortunately in the matter of recent african history Sudan is far from alone in this respect, several of the other countries I have passed through have skirted very close to being in the same position - whilst the people have been friendly and there is wonderful scenery there are some particularly nasty regimes on this part of continent.

Because of the effect of sanctions old Bedford/Austin/Morris trucks still abound

Travel and photography permit - an essential on top of you visa

The people themselves are incredibly friendly, and after Ethiopia where most prices had to be strongly negotiated down from the "farangi (foriegner)" premium it was lovely to be back to where charging the local price was the norm.

Adam, Muhammed and ? - these three gentlemen fixed a snapped clutch cable (plus my previously snapped spare) within half an hour for $3.

There was a major change in the environment as I crossed the border to Sudan, from being up in the (relative) cool of the highlands I suddenly found myself down on hot desert plains - for many of the days temperatures in the mid fourties Celsius were the norm, whilst riding I found myself consuming water as fast as the bike drank fuel.

Note to self- stay on tar roads.

Sand drifting across the highway threatened to block it in places.

Khartoum is an unexpectedly modern city with very an array of flashy government buildings and top end hotels paid for with oil revenues (and oft built by the Chinese, who here, like much of the rest of Africa, appear to be rapidly building political influence by the provision of infrastructure).

The Acropole Hotel, Khartoum - gave me two days respite from the heat.

Lord Kitchener gunboat - used in the capture of Khartoum by the British in the 1890's and now hard aground at the. ...

The flashiest hotel in town, used by Chinese businessmen and politicians - well outside my budget

Not much to look at - the confluence of the Nile, where the Blue Nile from Ethiopia and the White Nile from Uganda come together before heading to Egypt

Heading north it was back out into the desert and one of Sudan's main sights, the Meroe Pyramids - over thirty grouped in one place. They were a spectacular sight, and I was that days tourist.

Once 30 metres tall- the tops are now missing because of Victorian treasure hunters

And where there is a tourist, there is quickly someone to try and sell you a souvenir

Wild camping in the dunes behind the pyramids - the sand storm that raged all night made this quite an experience.

From there it was more desert highway riding, interspersed with stops at small towns on the side of the river Nile, a river that dominates this country providing a narrow fertile green belt all the way north to the Egyptian border.