Week 3
A lots happened this week. Last week it was lots of hanging around Johannesburg, this week has instead seen lots of travel, I've left South Africa, travelled through Swaziland and I'm writing this drinking a beer at a beach resort in Mozambique.
In Swaziland (trivia fact - Africa's last absolute monarchy) I spent the nights staying in three different national parks.
The first two parks didn't have any large predators so I could simply walk (and ride my bike) around them without restriction. I had a couple of really enjoyable morning hikes as a result and it felt both good to be getting some exercise again and bring able to get up close to the animals.
The third park however had hippos, rhinos and lions - not good walking or riding territory - so I went on an organized early morning game drive instead and was rewarded with these.
Mozambique hadn't initially been in my plans but after talking to the guy who fitted my new shock in Johannnesburg I was convinced it would be worth a visit. The border was crossed at Wednesday lunchtime and I approached it with some trepidation as it was the first time I would use my "carnet" the document that assists temporary importation of the bike into some countries. As it was it all went really smoothly, queue up at a few counters, hand over the paperwork, stamp stamp and suddenly out of one country and safely into the next.
After South Africa, Mozambique feels a lot more chaotic, there's lots more hustle and bustle on the streets, crowds swarm, traffic rules are looser (lots looser), but perversely it also in many ways feels safer. I can't really explain why but I think it has a lot to do with the fact that, unlike SA, people are not forever telling you how bad crime is and how dangerous things are plus every house is not wrapped in razor wire; after awhile those things just sink into your psyche and you begin to feel there are risks everywhere. It probably also has do with me just getting more comfortable traveling again.
I spent the first night in Maputo, the capital, which has a run down charm and an energy that reminds me of Asian cities but there was not enough of it to keep me there so I moved on the next day. I'm now moving up the east coast stopping at beach resorts as I go. Tonight I'm at Tofo a small town that positively reminds me of Bali thirty years ago: Beautiful beaches, simple but effective tourist infrastructure and little hassle from touts - get here before it all disappears in mass market tourism.
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| Did I take a wrong turn somewhere? (Hint look carefully at the sign) |
A lots happened this week. Last week it was lots of hanging around Johannesburg, this week has instead seen lots of travel, I've left South Africa, travelled through Swaziland and I'm writing this drinking a beer at a beach resort in Mozambique.
In Swaziland (trivia fact - Africa's last absolute monarchy) I spent the nights staying in three different national parks.
 |
| Traditional houses |
The first two parks didn't have any large predators so I could simply walk (and ride my bike) around them without restriction. I had a couple of really enjoyable morning hikes as a result and it felt both good to be getting some exercise again and bring able to get up close to the animals.
 |
| A cute lookin Honey Badger (Google Honey Badger fights Lion to see what they are really like ) |
The third park however had hippos, rhinos and lions - not good walking or riding territory - so I went on an organized early morning game drive instead and was rewarded with these.
Mozambique hadn't initially been in my plans but after talking to the guy who fitted my new shock in Johannnesburg I was convinced it would be worth a visit. The border was crossed at Wednesday lunchtime and I approached it with some trepidation as it was the first time I would use my "carnet" the document that assists temporary importation of the bike into some countries. As it was it all went really smoothly, queue up at a few counters, hand over the paperwork, stamp stamp and suddenly out of one country and safely into the next.
After South Africa, Mozambique feels a lot more chaotic, there's lots more hustle and bustle on the streets, crowds swarm, traffic rules are looser (lots looser), but perversely it also in many ways feels safer. I can't really explain why but I think it has a lot to do with the fact that, unlike SA, people are not forever telling you how bad crime is and how dangerous things are plus every house is not wrapped in razor wire; after awhile those things just sink into your psyche and you begin to feel there are risks everywhere. It probably also has do with me just getting more comfortable traveling again.
I spent the first night in Maputo, the capital, which has a run down charm and an energy that reminds me of Asian cities but there was not enough of it to keep me there so I moved on the next day. I'm now moving up the east coast stopping at beach resorts as I go. Tonight I'm at Tofo a small town that positively reminds me of Bali thirty years ago: Beautiful beaches, simple but effective tourist infrastructure and little hassle from touts - get here before it all disappears in mass market tourism.
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