Friday 21 October 2011

St Petersburg

Well I write this from Estonia - so I'm now out of Russia and in the EU.  I originally thought I would spend about 2 months crossing Russia (and Mongolia) but in the end I spent 89 days out of the 90 days allowed by my visa.

Before leaving my last major stop was Saint Petersburg.  It turned out to be a spectacular city and certainly the most "beautiful" of the big Russian cities I've been - I can see why it is the tourist icon it is.

When you get to St Petersburg you realise how different it is to Moscow - its an "old money" versus "new money feel".  St Petersburg has a continuous array of beautiful old buildings, virtually no new buildings (at least in the centre) and the people seem to have blended in - traffic is less, flash cars are minimal, the whole place whilst very busy seems more relaxed and enjoying itself rather than desperately making and spending money.

The prime Saint Petersburg tourist attraction has to be the Hermitage art gallery located in the Winter Palace.  I knew this place was big - I hadn't realised how big; I spent a full day, opening to closing time in it, and only saw half of the rooms and galleries.  The Tsars (and later the Communist party) were serious art collectors - want to see a Rembrandt, a Titian, a Rubens, a Van Goch, a Da Vinci, a Monet, a Picasso etc etc - they are all there and usually half or dozen or more - also ancient Egyptian mummies, Greek sculpture, Scythian gold, Roman ornaments, the list is endless.  It is dazzling in its enormity with the art works being only half the display because the palace itself is an extravaganza.  You also get a chance to really appreciate it all because the crowds are huge and your allowed to just wander around freely, none of the art works are behind glass and only a few of the most valuable gold and jewel items have any form of intrusive security.  I couldn't imagine any major European museum or palace feeling as open - not feeling you expect to get in Russia.  Any way here are a few of the mandatory photo's to whet your appetite to visit yourselves.

[caption id="attachment_579" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="The Hermitage from the outside."][/caption]

 

[caption id="attachment_580" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="and by night. (My  hostel was only a hundred metres from where this was taken - it was like staying next door to Buckingham palace - but it was only $30 night)"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_581" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="A random room"][/caption]

 

[caption id="attachment_582" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="And another."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_583" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="And being a palace it had to have a real throne - this is one of several scattered around."][/caption]

Continuing on the cultural theme I also visited a few more churches.

[caption id="attachment_584" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="Church of the Spilled Blood (so called because it marks where Alexander II got blown up in the 1870's)"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_585" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="The interior is a mass of spectacular mosaics - spectacular because they have just spent 27 years restoring them."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_586" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="Kazan Cathederal"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_587" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="with a more traditional guilded icon interior ( in St P, unlike the rest of Russia, they seem to be unworried about you taking photo's inside the churches)"][/caption]

And because I am who I am also spent a fair amount of time in a car and bike museum  I found.

[caption id="attachment_588" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="A 350cc Jawa - maybe for the next tour - plenty of luggage room."][/caption]

Also a military engineering museum;

[caption id="attachment_589" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="Why we rightly scared in the 70's."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_590" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="and more reasons."][/caption]

And of course a ship;

[caption id="attachment_591" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="The cruiser Aurora - which is preserved because the mutiny of the crew in 1917 was one of the important turning points in the October revolution."][/caption]

Another museum was where they did a lot of the original rocket research;

[caption id="attachment_594" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="Recognise this? (its a Sputnik satellite for my younger readers - when they launched the first they built a few spares)"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_595" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="and what was inside - not a computer chip in sight (and precious few transistors even)"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_596" align="aligncenter" width="360" caption="And a rocket motor from the manned space program (4 of these were on the first stage of the Vostok rocket)"][/caption]

And finally a few general street scenes.

[caption id="attachment_592" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="St P has a large network of canals which give it real character - and boat trips are a lovely way to see the city."][/caption]

 

An "average" back street in the centre of town.

 

[caption id="attachment_598" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="I said in an earlier post that Ufa felt like it was closing down for winter. By contrast people in St P seemed to be dertermined to make the most of reasonable weather and celebrate until the snows really started to fall."][/caption]

 

Anyway it was finally time to move on to cross the border and Russia laid on one final present for me:

[caption id="attachment_600" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="On my way to the border this cold white stuff started pouring out of the sky!"][/caption]

 

[caption id="attachment_603" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="and it continued most of the way to the border."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_604" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="Not a spetacular photo - but my last shot of Russia as I entered the border post. Farewell."][/caption]

4 comments:

  1. Hi Martin,If there is anything that could stimulate these old bones into booking a flight to Russia it would be your posts from Moscow & St Petersburg - you excelled yourself with descriptions & photos not just of the customary icons but of the things not normally featured in newsreels such as the gorgeous interiors of the Metro & museums to name a couple.The item that the streets of Moscow were awash with Bentleys & other exotica must have appealed particularly to Jack,and the fact that Canada was once known as New North Wales would stymie most Mastermind contestants I imagine!! Keep up the good work.
    All the best Dad

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  2. Hi martin
    Sorry it's been a couple of weeks since I posted. While you are on the trip of a lifetime (for the second time, it's not fair) i've been caught up with work as I build my comic stripping empire and a family that keeps me constantly occupied.
    I'm not sure if dad has told you, but you are going to be a great uncle for a second time. Emily is expecting number two in April!
    My grey hairs will increase as the months tick by.
    We are really looking forward to seeing you in December and a place is booked at our christmas table.
    As ever your posts are equal parts entertaining and educational.
    Looking forward to the next one.

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  3. Martin,
    Fantastic read, hasn't time flown, been following every your every move and are envious of the fredom you must be enjoying, hope the weather is kind to you for the remainder of the trip

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  4. just shown some in the office great idea of the GPS thing puts it all into prospective fantastic trip so far well done catch up later I am now in the UK (the easy way) regards Roy

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