Tuesday, 16 August 2011

Reaching Siberia

Firstly before I forget a big thank you to everyone who has sent comments - they are much appreciated.  Secondly I have now managed to add a link to a map of where I am to the site - look either at the top of the page or on the left for the "Where am I" tab/link. Now back to the news.

Well from Chita I did finally make it to Ulan Ude . I planned on it being a 1 day hop ride but in fact it turned into a two day ride. It was only about 650 km in total, but partly because I got an attack of 'Delhi Belly' (also known as the Siberian S...s to the less subtle) which slowed my progress but also because the road meandered and was full of roadworks plus the scenery was so stunning that I kept on stopping to just look at it I ended up covering only 400- 500km by near nightfall.

[caption id="attachment_242" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="Road workers camp - alongside their 'project'"][/caption]

 

[caption id="attachment_241" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="and their accommodation"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_243" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption=" and their project - a new bridge."][/caption]

 

So obeying my self imposed rule of no Russian highways at night it was another session of camping in the Siberian wilderness, albeit less than half a kilometre from the highway.

[caption id="attachment_244" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="First properly Siberian campsite"][/caption]

 

And yes I am now officially in Siberia – somewhere in those three days I crossed the border from the Russian Far East into the Siberian region (I originally assumed Siberia was all the eastern half of Russia and I was wrong). I also changed the timezones for the second time, Vladivostok was strangely an hour ahead of Australia despite being west of Sydney, I then came back in line somewhere around Blagovesensck and now I find I'm one hour behind. Certainly no risk of jet lag at my rate of progress. Just as I reached Siberia I also passed 5000 km on the road.

 

[caption id="attachment_258" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="5400 kms down - 20,000 or more to go."][/caption]

Not a huge amount to say about the two days travelling other than there was often stunning scenery (so there are a few more photo's below) and as I moved west a noticable increase in the agricultural intensity. Whereas in the far east it was occasional as I came into Siberia it became intermittent and by the time I reached 200km from Ulan Ude full on large scale.

[caption id="attachment_248" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="Village based"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_250" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="and more intensive."][/caption]

 

 

One thing that is obvious is that next to each large village tends to be a set of ruined sheds and concrete hard standing – all of very uniform design. From my reading I take these to be the remains of the “Machinery Stations” the central collection of tractors (and political control of the countryside) that were a key part of Stalin's collective farm system.

 

[caption id="attachment_246" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="Inauspicious entry - this and horrendous traffic"]

Abandoned machinery sheds

 

Ulan Ude has turned out to be quite distinctive. The drive in wasn't attractive but its centre is quite western tourist organised; some signs in English. Also in a first for Russia there seems in the centre of strong effort to maintain the surroundings. Here the paths are swept, flower beds weeded, things generally tidied and the like, whereas further east they seemed quite good at doing the initial installation or planting but then put no effort into preserving it so was usually slightly rundown and overgrown.
[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_251" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="Almost European flavour in the centre"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_253" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="but maybe a different view on health, safety and personal responsibility!"][/caption]

 

The city centre also has new modern hotels and is slowley getting the international makeover, albeit with an asian-russian flavour. But outside the centre your back in dirt streets of wooden houses – you just hoped some get preserved and tastefully modernised rather than all razed to the ground as the centre expands outwards.

[caption id="attachment_254" align="aligncenter" width="347" caption="Garishly new"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_255" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption=" old (but photogenic)"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_256" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="Globalisation - European style house, Japanese mini-bus, Ulan Ude location"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_257" align="aligncenter" width="480" caption="The Russian Orthodox do good looking churches"][/caption]

I'm staying in a travellers hostel here which is an experience. Ulan Ude is the point where European travellers get off the trans siberian train to go to Mongolia – currently a popular exotic but budget destination. So the hostel (which is really just a converted 2 bedroom apartment crammed with 16 beds) is full of Brits, Germans, Scandinaveans etc and in many senses to me doesn't feel very much like travelling. Its a little insulated world of european attitudes generally worrying about train and bus-timetables and getting to the next destination point (or getting their washing done)– certainly allows you to have minimal contact with Russians. I've enjoyed it for the two nights I've been here, and got lots of friendly conversation and some useful info, but I wouldn't want to only use only hostels (which is certainly possible west of here) for the rest of the trip. Also because of the cramped space, and communal everything, it is really hard to get anything done – I was thinking in staying in a hostel in Irkutsk whilst doing my language lessons next two weeks but I think for at least some of the time I'll find a cheap hotel instead so I have a chance to study a bit outside class time (which is only half days).

 

From here later today I'm heading to a village on the shores of Lake Baikal and then over the next couple of days around to Irkutsk.

 



 


 
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4 comments:

  1. Malcolm17 August 2011 at 04:13

    Hi Martin,

    Thanks for adding the link to the GPS trace! It's nice to see where you are.

    I also thought Siberia went all the way East...

    Jean has been enjoying reading about your exploits too.

    M.

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  2. Ant17 August 2011 at 05:25

    Hi Martin
    As ever, your blog is equal parts education, entertainment and envy on my part.
    That said, I'd do the trip on four wheels.

    Looking forward to the next thrilling installment!
    Ant

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  3. dopeyoldbloke20 August 2011 at 05:42

    Hi Martin
    It's a long way from Dayboro and our coffee in Newcastle but that was just a few weeks ago! what an adventure. Great stuff!
    Geoff

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  4. Hugh (Dad)20 August 2011 at 10:57

    Hi ,Martin.Until your latest link I've been following your progress on a Collins World Atlas which surprisingly included the names of all the places you've visited(except Aginscoe).Your stay there alongside the Buryat family sounded great - except perhaps for the shared supper menu.You (fortunately)didn't inherit your enviable digestion from me ! Could the Delhi belly have been a delayed reaction?

    All the best Dad.

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