Week 28 - It was one heck of a party (Norwegian biker hospitality)

Leaving the high of Nordkapp I started to head south. The guidebook says when you're that far north you have to visit the Lofoton Islands which are famed for their dramatic scenery of high, snow covered, jagged crags with dramatic fjords and tiny villages jammed in between them. I could see the praise is justified- but maybe I should have started with "When I could see" for unfortunately literally as I turned onto the islands the weather broke. For the two days I was there it was in equal parts snowing, raining and sunny (but still freezing).

The journey south has continued with the same weather pattern but in between the showers I've seen some wonderful scenery (and also when going over the high passes I've seen virtually nothing as thick sleet has blown continuously - always glad to get down safely from those, especially as the back tyre now has a lot less tread left than I like).

Throughout Norway you can legally wild camp, within reason, any where you like. So for a mixture of budget control and the fact I simply like it, that's what I've been doing, and have had some wonderful spots, usually alongside a deserted fjord all to myself.

The view from the site above - and all to myself

But there can be a downside (I was warm enough through the night but packing up was tough)

By the end of the week I'd made it about halfway down Norway and I visited Alesun in theory to have a look at the Art Nouveau buildings of the town centre. It didn't quite work out that way. As I arrived in town I found a local bikers day was happening. I was enthusiastically adopted by the crowd, interviewed by the local paper and generally had great fun.

An advantage of instant fame - pretty girls want to talk to you (thank you Lina for making my day)

Then I was invited to a party. Let's say it was a long night - we started with the pre-party, moved onto the party proper, and when that finished moved back for the after- party. Norwegian biker generousity was extreme. All night I had beers thrust into my hands (often faster than I could drink them) by complete strangers and lots of wonderful conversations. Fortunately my tent was pitched just outside the clubhouse door so the stagger home at 5:30 in the morning was mercifully short. No traveling that day.

Headstones Motorcycle Club - scene of most of the hospitality (and whose membership is an exceptionally friendly group).

George - whose invitation started the downward spiral of the evening.

Week 27 - Mission accomplished.

I started this trip by going to Cape Algulhas, the southern tip of Africa and right at the end of this week I reached Nordkapp (North Cape) Norway and now feel this journey is complete; a south - north of the Africa/Europe/Asia landmass to go with the east - west of the Russia to UK trip. For those interested this journey has so far covered 33,000 kilometres and taken 192 days compared with the 27,000 kilometres and 145 days of that first trip.

Haven't got the tree shirts, but did get patches for my jacket

I was surprised by how elated I felt when I got to Nordkapp, much more than when I reached the top of Africa. I was on a huge high when I arrived. I forget how goal orientated I am and it caught me out when I got there and suddenly realised that I'd achieved all that I'd set out to do on this trip (that is all except the critical last step of getting home safely).

Nordkapp - latitude 72 degrees north (Cape Agulhas is 38 degrees south)

I arrived at Nordkapp at 8pm on one of the first nights of the midnight sun so I camped there and lay in my tent watching the sun come down but never dip below the horizon with the light so strong you have no trouble reading. I was also extremely lucky with the weather, a comparatively mild 5 degrees at night and cloudless sky to enhance the experience.

1am and the sun is just starting to rise again

Scenery approaching Nordkapp

And more scenery

Reindeer just free range - with a about as much road intelligence as the averge sheep

Prices in Norway are scary. This typical burger works out at $13 (or £7) and another $2 for cheese. 

The part of the week before Nordkapp was a bit of a blur of travel, bit more rushed than the earlier months of the trip but I knew this was going to be the case - from Druskininku, Lithuania where I started the week it was a whirl of Latvia then Estonia then ferry to Finland followed by 1600 kms riding pretty much straight north, crossing the Artic  Circle on the way. Part of the rush was because the weather was dry and the forecast was for it to change to rain the following week.

The Artic Circle crossing point has been turned into a tourist trap where you buy your Santa themed everything. Fortunately it was closed when I passed.

Starting to get cold- that's ice on the water

Latvia had some great gravel roads - it was wonderful to be back off tar for awhile. 

Did the plan change?  - we have the railway bridge, but nothing but a 10 metre drop each end. 

Lithuania was full of beautiful little villages glowing in the spring sunshine

Week 26 - Which country am I in?

This week has been one of steady progress north, one week and six countries; Bulgaria, Romania, Hungary, Slovakia, Poland and finally Lithuania. Sounds like I've been rushing, but in reality that's all within 2000 kilometres.  Part of the reason for the onward flight has been the feeling that I'm running out of time but it's also been driven by the weather; steady progress northwards has allowed me to keep the sun and reasonably warm days whilst the rain has been continuously closing in behind me. Not certain how much longer my luck can last but so far the worst I've had to deal with have been a few heavy showers and the cold nights that the cloudless days have brought.

I'm writing this in the town of Druskininku which I'd never heard of until yesterday until I stopped here almost by chance. It's turned out to be a beautiful small resort town where traditionally people have come to take the waters at the spas (the east Europeans and Russians are still very keen on this). It's situated on a network of rivers and small lakes, full of flower beds of blooming tulips, lots of interesting old and new architecture,  cafes and bars abound and everything is smart and clean and in the spring sun is really beautiful - probably not the picture that comes to mind when I say "Lithuanian town" to you.

The whole week has been one of lovely sights. This part of Europe in spring seems to be particularly bright and green and with blossom on everything; combine that with some glorious, lightly touristed, old towns and you have a mixture I really enjoy. Must come back here for a longer trip soon - there's a little seed of an idea for  spending a few months doing a loop around the edges of Europe germinating in my mind at the moment (as ever though it's competing with a few other ideas as well).

Anyway enough writing, here are a few pictures

Springs is here in eastern Europe 

Passed in Bulgaria - that's 45 degrees covered since the equator in January (and and 32 to go until I reach Nordkapp)

The back roads of Romania abound with the horse and cart still - and also beautiful old fortified churches

Following the backroads you also come across many villages that feel like they haven't changed much in fifty years

And also more than a few old run down and abandoned industrial sites

Bardejov in Slovakia - just picture perfect and not a tourist to be seen

Roadside lunch

Not certain why they were there- but I liked them

And this might explain why the nights are still cold - snow on the Carpethian Mountains

Week 25 - Gallipoli

A proper exploration of Turkey is going to have to wait for for another trip, but the reason I quickly visited on this one was to attend the Dawn Service on the Gallipoli Peninsular on Anzac Day (the 25th April).

About 5:30 am on the 25th April

Next day I spent some time traveling around the peninsular seeing a number of the other memorial sights and also appreciating the ruggedness of the territory - the weather deteriorated to cold rain squalls during the day and they gave you a small appreciation of how rugged the conditions must have been in the area during the campaign.

Lone Pine Cemetery- the major Australian commemorative site. 

A soldier from Singleton (a few kilometres from where I now live)

View from Second Ridge showing the maximum extent of the territory captured for the loss of nearly 10,000 Anzac and 20,000 Turks (and other sites north and south had equally horrific figures for British and Turkish losses)

My bike being guarded during my absence viewing the memorials

A small, but important moment in the bikes life happened whilst I was at Gallipoli.

A row of zeroes - passing the 200,000 km mark (150,000 under my ownership and about half of those since it left Australia)

 From Turkey I've headed towards Bulgaria. My last stop before I left the country was the town of Edirne which I chose for its convenient location close to the border rather than any great expectations of sights. I was very pleasantly surprised, it turned out to be one of those little known gems, a former capital of the Ottoman Empire in the 14 and 15 centuries (hope I remember correctly) the centre was full of old houses, mosques, ruins an overall a lovely feeling of peace and tranquility.

Selimyi Mosque - built 1470, and as magnificent as any of the European cathedrals of the same era. 

The crossing into Bulgaria marked and entry into the EU and was quick and uneventful (unlike for these truck drivers).

Nearly 3 kilometre tail back of trucks waiting to cross

On arrival in Bulgaria I headed immediately to a motorcyclist orientated camp I knew of,  partly to pick up some parts to do some maintenance (thanks Jack for sending these) but in truth mainly just enjoying relaxing with fellow travelers, swapping yarns and drinking a few beers. Today I intend to hit the road north again (but I did say that yesterday as well).

To my surprise the village has a strong British ex-pat community  - you can apparently buy a "renovator" for a few thousand pounds or something liveable for two or three times that. 

Week 24 - Back on two wheels

The week started just as I hoped - I got my bike back. Greek import procedures proved be a bit of a song and dance but after a few hours running around the port (including a frustrating hour and a bit shuffling between four counters all to allow me to pay a 7 euro ($10) fee) I was allowed to ride it away. At  slightly over US$1000 for the bike and $300 for me that was an expensive few miles crossing the Mediterranean.

The very next morning it was back on the road again and the first stop was Meteora, which had been recommended to me by Megan. It's a place of high peaks beloved by climbers but noteworthy because monks and nuns of yore had chosen to build their monasteries and nunneries on top of many of the steepest and most defensible of them,  making for some spectacular (if strikingly impracticable) buildings.

If you look carefully at the centre of this picture you will spot an abandoned monastory - even the monks thought this one was a bit extreme

12,000 litre wine barrel- well you need something to keep you going when cut off in winter

Whilst in Meteora I managed to get the bike tyres changed as the pair that got me through Africa were not going to last the rest of the trip.

Unfortunately there was a sequel to this next day. ...

An uncanny similarity to what happened after the previous set was fitted in Cape Town - and both flats are not punctures but rather caused by errors by the tyre fitter. I think I'll go back to doing my own tyre fitting.

Come the end of the week I've moved countries again and headed into Turkey for a brief visit so I can attend the ANZAC Day Dawn Service at Gallipoli. Crossing the border proved a contrast after the last six months of experiences - suddenly it was all orderly lines and logical progression from one counter to another,  I rather missed the adrenalin rush of the african crossings where you wandered around trying to work out the systems with lots of locals guiding you,  smiling, talking (and sometimes trying to sell you something).

Turkey introduced itself with a wonderful experience on my first night,  I was sitting in a cafe, people watching and writing up my journal when a local approached me and with out much preamble said "I want to make you a gift" - and gave me this lovely leather covered note book.

The inscription he'd written in it really touched me "Whoever and wherever you are remember us". A beautiful generous gift given with no thought of a reciprocal offering - these are the things that make independent track so special and I'll remember long after I've forgotten details of the scenery and monuments.  Thank you Ojiwz.